In Lucca, the dining options are as abundant as tourists taking selfies at the Leaning Tower of Pisa. From cozy trattorias tucked away in narrow alleys to elegant bistros lining bustling piazzas, the city's culinary scene offers an array of flavors and experiences. With so many tempting options to choose from, you'd need months to scratch the surface. So, pace yourself, savor each bite, and let your taste buds guide you on a journey through this food lover's paradise.
Join us as we embark on a week-long culinary adventure through Lucca, immersing in the city's rich gastronomic offerings from breakfast to dessert. WARNING: I'm not sure it's humanly possible to actually follow this culinary itinerary to the letter. If you try to tackle every meal in Italy like it's your last supper, they might just have to roll you onto the plane. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, aperitivo, dessert—phew! Thankfully, logging lots of steps exploring all that Lucca has to offer will undoubtedly help offset the indulging. Pace yourself, or you'll end up needing a forklift instead of a boarding pass. Remember, it's a marathon, not a sprint, so leave some room for all those gelato pitstops. Buon appetito... and good luck fitting into your airplane seat, let alone your pants!
We're not food critics, but here's where we would eat if we only had one week in Lucca (in no particular order):
Day 1:
Breakfast: Caffè del Teatro - Neapolitan pastries in a welcoming environment at Via S. Girolamo, 6
Lunch: Trattoria Da Giulio - Traditional Lucchese cuisine with beautiful outdoor seating at Via delle Conce, 45
Aperitivo: H&G Coffee Lounge - Artisanal cocktails at Via S. Giorgio 36
Dinner: Vecchia Trattoria Buralli - Via San Giorgio 10
Dessert: Gelateria Anfiteatro - in Piazza Anfiteatro
Day 2:
Breakfast: Pasticceria Dianda - Cappuccino and numerous pastries at Via S. Paolina 93
Lunch: Da Ciacco - Panini, salads and charcuterie boards (no pizza or pasta, which they'll remind you of every time you go!) at Piazza Napoleone 10
Aperitivo: Enoteca Vanni - Amazing wine selection. Be sure to check out the cellar! P.za del Salvatore, 7
Dinner: Osteria Miranda - Excellent service and inventive menu for a special occasion. Pricey, but worth the experience. Via dei Carrozzieri, 27
Gelato: I Gelati di Piero - Artisan gelato including several unique flavors. Via Roma 5
Day 3:
Breakfast: Pasticceria Taddeucci - Taste the infamous Buccellato sweet bread where it was invented at Piazza San Michele, 34
Lunch: Strabuono - The best street food outside of Naples at Via Buia 2
Aperitivo: Franklin 33 - Speakeasy vibes and cocktails at Via S. Giorgio, 43
Dinner: Buca di S’Antonio - Tuscan Michelin-recognized cuisine at Via San Paolino near Piazza S. Michele
Gelato: Momo Gelati - Piazza della Magione, 1
Day 4:
Breakfast: Pasticceria Tiffany - Morning pastries outside the walls at Via Gaetano Luporini
Lunch: Osteria del Neni - Traditional dishes at Via Pescheria, 3. Try their buccellato tiramisu!
Aperitivo: Vinarkia - Cozy cocktails on Via Fillungo 188
Dinner: Gigliola - Small plates at Corso Garibaldi, 17 or Michelin-rated fine dining at Gigliola's big sister, Ristorante Giglio at Piazza del Giglio, 2 OR, consider taking a wonderful hands-on cooking class just outside of town.
Gelato: De Coltelli - Via S. Paolino, 10
Day 5:
Breakfast: Pasticceria La Stella - Morning delights just outside the walls at Traversa II via Pisana, 50
Lunch: La Linea - Offering Neapolitan style pizzas and more. Via Vittorio Emanuele II, 28
Aperitivo: Bar San Michele - Great people watching at Piazza S. Michele 1
Afternoon Tea: Caffe Santa Zita - Be sure to check out their garden! Piazza S. Frediano, 16*
Dinner: - Magazzino - Delightful small plates at Via dei Serragli, 101/R. Looking for something more? Check out Carbone for an intimate dining experience with an inventive menu. Their Bistecca alla Fiorentina is divine! Via Michele Rosi, 8
Day 6:
Breakfast: Bar S. Michele - Overlooking the piazza and Chiesa S. Michele -
Lunch: Pizzeria Da Felice - Located right in the heart of the city center, try their Cecina Toscana (chickpea flatbread). They also have pizza by the slice. Via Buia, 12
Aperitivo: Caffè Manon Lescaut - Try the St. Germain spritz! Piazza Cittadella 16
Dinner: Chiasso 13 - Intimate spot with delicious food and wine. Great service and reasonable prices. Chiasso Barletti, 13
Gelato: De Coltelli - For gelato. Via S. Paolino, 10
Day 7:
Breakfast: Caffetteria Turandot - P.za San Michele, 8
Lunch: Gino Frutta & Bistrot - Attached to fruit and veg market offering the freshest ingredients and great wine selection. Piazza S.Maria 18
Aperitivo: Perbacco - PIazza Anfiteatro, 39
Dinner: Ristorante Butterfly - head just a short drive to this Michelin star restaurant in the hills with an inventive menu and impeccable service for a special occasion. Via del Brennero, 192, Marlia. For a special meal within the walls, head to Osteria da Pasqualino Gubitosa at Via del Moro 8.
Gelato: Gelateria Paniko - Via San Girolamo 28
Decoding Italian Dining Options
Bars: Pivotal to Italian social life, bars in Italy provide morning espresso, light snacks, and evening aperitivos. Much more than mere drinking spots, Italian bars serve as epicenters of both socializing and culinary exploration. Operating throughout the day, they cater to diverse needs, from early coffee fixes to late-night aperitivos. Mornings see locals bustling in for a swift espresso or cappuccino paired with a pastry, while the day unfolds with an array of lunchtime sandwiches and snacks. As evening descends, bars evolve into aperitivo havens, where guests gather for pre-dinner drinks accompanied by complimentary snacks. Some even offer full dinner menus, making them versatile dining destinations.
Trattorias: These charming venues are celebrated for their cozy ambiance, serving up hearty, home-style dishes crafted from fresh, locally sourced ingredients.
Ristorantes: With refined settings and extensive menus showcasing meticulously crafted cuisine, these formal dining establishments are the epitome of elegance, ideal for marking special occasions or indulging in fine dining experiences.
Osterias: Rooted in tradition, these classic taverns specialize in wine alongside simple, traditional dishes, fostering a convivial atmosphere perfect for laid-back gatherings with loved ones.
Gelato
You probably noticed that we've included gelato in almost every daily plan. Eating gelato daily is a delicious Italian tradition. Besides, with so many flavors to try, it's like conducting important research... in the name of cultural immersion, of course! So, why deny yourself a daily dose of happiness in the form of creamy, heavenly gelato?
Slow Travel
The culinary itinerary above neglected to mention that exploring markets and grocery stores in Lucca offers a delightful opportunity to immerse yourself in the local food culture. Live like a local as you wander through bustling markets where vendors display vibrant arrays of in-season fruits, vegetables, cheeses, and cured meats. Engage with local farmers and artisans, learning about their fresh produce and traditional techniques. Alternatively, venture into one of several grocery stores dotted throughout the city, where you'll find a bounty of locally sourced ingredients, including artisanal pasta, olive oil, and wines. Whether you're whipping up a simple pasta dish with ripe tomatoes and basil or preparing a hearty Tuscan soup with seasonal vegetables and aromatic herbs, cooking with fresh, local ingredients is a rewarding experience that captures the essence of Lucca's culinary heritage.
A Note on Breakfast in Italy
In Italy, breakfast, or "colazione," is typically a lighter affair compared to other meals of the day. Italians often start their morning with a simple yet satisfying combination of a hot beverage like espresso or cappuccino, paired with a pastry such as a croissant or brioche. Savory options like eggs or bacon are less common for breakfast in Italy. The emphasis is on convenience and simplicity, allowing Italians to fuel up quickly before starting their day. It's noteworthy that Italians adhere to cultural norms, avoiding milk-based drinks like cappuccino after 11 am, as they believe it may interfere with digestion. Instead, they prefer espresso or other non-milk-based beverages later in the day.
What to Look For
In Italy, distinguishing between a touristy restaurant and a local favorite can greatly enhance your dining experience. One telltale sign of a touristy establishment in Italy is its prominent location in heavily trafficked areas near tourist attractions, often accompanied by multilingual menus with photos. In contrast, local favorites tend to be tucked away in quieter neighborhoods, frequented by discerning locals who prioritize authenticity. Look for restaurants bustling with Italians during traditional meal times, especially those where reservations are recommended or necessary. Additionally, observe the clientele—locals often linger over their meals, savoring each bite and engaging in lively conversation. Ultimately, trusting your instincts and seeking out places where locals dine can lead to unforgettable gastronomic experiences that truly capture the essence of Italian dining culture.
Time to Dine
Traditional dining times in Italy follow a rhythmic cadence deeply ingrained in the fabric of daily life. Tourists often struggle to synchronize with Italian dining times, finding themselves ravenous at 5 pm when most restaurants are still closed for their afternoon rest. My advice? Embrace the Italian rhythm of life, where meals are savored slowly and with gusto. While adjusting to the dining times may take a moment, assimilating early in your stay allows you to fully immerse yourself in the authentic culinary experience Italy has to offer. And here's a little tip: Italians generally avoid ordering cappuccino or milk drinks after 11 am because it's believed that the combination of milk and coffee can be heavy on the stomach and interfere with digestion later in the day. So, grab some light snacks, stroll through the cobblestone streets, and relish the anticipation of your next delicious meal!
Breakfast, often a simple affair consisting of a quick espresso or cappuccino accompanied by a pastry, is typically enjoyed between 7:00 AM and 9:00 AM. Bars, integral to Italian social life, open early in the morning to cater to locals seeking their morning caffeine fix.
Lunch, considered the day's main meal, typically occurs between 12:30 PM and 2:00 PM, allowing ample time for indulging in multiple courses and leisurely conversation. Italians prioritize fresh, locally sourced ingredients, often enjoying a midday repast composed of antipasti, primo (first course), secondo (second course), contorno (side dish), and dolce (dessert), accompanied by wine and followed by a leisurely passeggiata, or post-meal stroll.
Dinner, typically a lighter affair, is served later in the evening, usually between 7:30 PM and 9:00 PM, (although locals seem to arrive @8:15pm) offering another opportunity for culinary exploration and socializing with loved ones. These cherished dining rituals reflect Italy's rich culinary heritage and its reverence for food as a source of nourishment, pleasure, and connection.
In order to savor the flavors of Lucca, you may need to make reservations in advance, especially during peak seasons. Check out The Fork to make easy online reservations! Or, click on the links to the restaurants above.
One final recommendation...consider starting your stay with a food tour—a perfect introduction to Lucca's culinary delights, where you will very likely discover some new spots we haven't included above. After all, one week is hardly enough time to eat your way through Lucca! With each bite, you'll discover the culinary soul of this enchanting city, leaving you with memories to savor long after your stay.
In a city bursting with culinary treasures like Lucca, one week barely scratches the surface of its gastronomic wonders...Buon appetito!
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