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Ashley Campolattaro

Garmugia: How a Taste of Lucca Warmed Our Hearts... and Our Bellies

garmugia guanciale ingredients
In a large saucepan, combine the spring onions with a few tablespoons of olive oil and the guanciale strips and/or pancetta. Sauté until the fat melts and it is crispy and golden brown.

Upon our return to Northern Virginia, we find ourselves yearning for Lucca and craving to infuse our home (and our bellies!) with the essence of Italy. In fact, my suitcase bore the weight of a hefty luggage fee, burdened by the treasures of wine, olive oil, and other culinary delights. So, I decided to embark on the culinary journey of crafting Garmugia soup for the first time.


While springtime weather can be somewhat erratic, this light soup can help bridge the volatile temperature swings of the season. It was under 60 degrees outside when I decided to make this recipe, but by the time I had sourced all of the ingredients a couple of days later, it was pushing 90! Nothing says sweltering weather like a hot bowl of soup!


In the realm of Tuscan cucina povera, where simplicity and resourcefulness reign supreme, there's a gem that stands out from the rest. Meet garmugia, a soup that defies its humble origins and whispers of nobility with every spoonful. Unlike its rustic counterparts, this dish, with its array of first-of-the-season vegetables, guancale and ground veal, carries the essence of aristocratic cuisine. This soup dates back to the 16th century and there’s a reason it has stood the test of time. Originally crafted as a remedy for winter's toll on the body, it's the perfect tribute to welcome the dawn of a new season.


Garmugia is on most traditional Lucchese menus during the spring, but I first tried it at Ristorante Buca di Sant’Antonio in Lucca Centro Storico. It was vibrantly green and full of flavor. Truly springtime in a bowl.


In the Italian culinary landscape we cherish the fleeting presence of ingredients like fava beans, and fresh peas, garmugia shines as a beacon of micro-seasonality. This soup is a testament to the bounties of spring, adorned with a palette of delicate hues.

Italy and US grocery price comparison

These ingredients were abundantly and affordably available at the local markets in Lucca. Unfortunately, back in the US, that was not the case. And, while carciofi (Italian for artichokes) were quite affordable in Lucca (ten for 4.99€!), in the US one artichoke is $3.49. Fortunately, we found some suitable options, which are noted in the recipe below.


Italians have a strong tradition of eating seasonally, savoring dishes crafted from ingredients at the peak of freshness and availability. Therefore, Garmugia is meant to be a fleeting pleasure, reserved for those precious moments when market stalls boast the treasures of the season – fava beans, peas, asparagus, and artichokes. So, seize the moment and prepare this springtime symphony in abundance, for once the season passes, you'll have to wait patiently for its return. It's the quintessential taste of springtime in Tuscan cuisine!

Ingredients for Garmugia

  • 4 spring onions

  • Extra virgin olive oil

  • 4 oz of guanciale or pancetta

  • 32 oz of ground veal (you can substitute ground beef)

  • 2 cups of shelled fava beans (fresh were not available, but I found some imported canned that worked well)

  • 2 cups of shelled peas

  • 20 asparagus stalks (thinner, more tender stalks)

  • 6 artichokes (Trader Joe’s has frozen artichokes that are perfect for this recipe and a big time saver!)

  • 1 liter of vegetable broth (I used a combo of vegetable and chicken stock)

  • 8 slices of stale bread for homemade croutons

  • salt

  • Freshly ground black pepper


Prep:

  • Start by shelling the fava beans (if using canned, rinse the beans in a colander) and peas, and slice the asparagus into thin rounds while leaving the tips intact. Keep the tips separate as they’ll be added later since they’re so delicate and cook quickly.

  • Thinly slice the artichokes, brushing them with a little lemon juice to prevent discoloration.

  • Slice the spring onions, including the green parts.

Preheat and Sauté:

  • In a large saucepan, combine the spring onions with a few tablespoons of olive oil and the guanciale strips and/or pancetta. Sauté until the fat melts and it is crispy and golden brown. Break it into small crumbs and cook evenly.


Combine and Simmer:

  • Drain the artichokes from the lemon water and add them to the pot with the sautéed ingredients. Stir and let cook for about a minute. Add all the other vegetables and stir, with the exception of the asparagus tips. Season with salt.

  • Pour the broth into the pot and let the soup simmer for 7-10 minutes or until the vegetables are just cooked, but retaining bright green color and not mushy.

  • Add the remaining broth.


Prepare the Croutons:

  • While the soup simmers, cut bread into cubes and toast them on a pan with olive oil and herbs until golden brown.


Finish and Serve:

  • Add the asparagus tips and cook just until they turn bright green. Once the soup is ready, add black pepper. Stir.

  • To serve, ladle the soup into bowls, top with the prepared croutons, grated parmigiano reggiano, and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil.

 

Serves: 8

Preparation Time: 20 minutes

Cooking Time: 30 minutes

Enjoy!

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